I’ve always thought the heartbeat of any community is the local pub. According to ONS research from May 2021 there were 58 pubs for every 100k people, meaning each one on average services 2k thirsty or hungry punters. The most recent Census (also 2021) saw Exminster’s population increase to over 4.5k. What with the new housing developments shooting up in our catchment area it’s hard to believe it, but our little village, as we know it, could soon double in size. With that future expanse in mind it’s sad then to see the Stowey still currently closed and tumbleweed – in a metaphoric sense – blowing through its car-park. It is estimated that in the last twenty years over a quarter of all pubs have closed in the UK and growing evidence suggests the malaise is only going to worsen. Prices were already on the increase before Covid hammered the hospitality industry in the wake of the cost of living crisis. That’s all been a bit of a triple whammy for our local watering holes and that’s before I even mention the mental angst for people running these establishments – against the equivalent of a full on riptide. Subsequently, pubs have had to adapt to survive and pub crawls like ‘The Topsham 10’ which I partaked in my youth were long ago consigned to history. Then, beer ruled the roost and food was a packet of pork scratchings, but now an estimated 30% of turnover comes from people sitting down for a meal which comes with much higher operating costs. My brother’s local in Sussex faced this dilemma and rented the kitchen to a local Thai family who now do all the cooking. The Landlord might not be making so much money on the food now but the woft of aromatic flavours has served like a dinner bell to the locals, seeing his drink takings go through the roof and helping keep costs down.When Julie and I were on our travels in Northumberland last year we even saw a pub turned over to a Swedish chef and the countries cuisine. I’m not sure how many roll-mops I’d have been able to stomach, but the idea had got some rave reviews.Of course there’s always the option of a community buy out. Many groups across the country have joined together to purchase their locals. It’s not cheap and needs lots of organisation but can help neighbourhoods flourish, creating a central hub or market place for local people. Thankfully back in Exminster we still buck that ONS trend…for now, with four pubs including the Stowey. The Swans Nest, with its quirky interior and Carvery is one of the best in the area and the busy Royal Oak ticks all the boxes for entertainment with a tasty looking menu and drinks selection. Finally the Turf out on our outskirts, offers one of the best panoramic views I’ve ever had a pint in – so we certainly can’t complain. Hopefully the Stowey will soon be back open as before or in a new guise and on my beer round with the rest of them again, packing in the punters and serving Exminster again. All our pubs are part of the village eco-system and are a genuine asset – without them the community suffers.

The Stowey Exminster in a by gone era

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